Coastal Pacific

With the Pacific Ocean lapping at its wheels and the Kaikoura ranges rising majestically above, the Coastal Pacific is undoubtedly one of the world's most picturesque train journeys.

From craggy coastal cliffs and rocky outcrops to modern vineyards and rustic farmsteads, the Coastal Pacific journey cruises through the full spectrum of New Zealand culture and character. Throw in a healthy dose of seals, seagulls, dolphins and the occasional whale, and the Coastal Pacific train easily ranks as one of best days out in New Zealand.

The Coastal Pacific journey follows the South Island's Main North Line railway (MNL). Due to remarkable geographical, geological, economic and political challenges, the railway took more than 70 years to complete. Adversity struck again in 2016 when the Kaikoura earthquake dismantled large sections of the railway, taking more the two years to rebuild. 

Today, along with stunning mountain and coastal views, the scars and stories of the earthquake are an integral part of the journey.  

The humble origins of the Main North Line began in the 1870s with a railway reaching north out of Christchurch into the rural countryside to provide easy transport for the farms and rural industries located on the Canterbury Plains.

Spanning a colossal 200km from north to south and 70km from east to west, the Canterbury Plains are New Zealand's largest expanse of continuous flat land. Essential to successful large-scale agriculture, these vast plains were bought by the Canterbury Association in 1850 as the perfect foundation for their new English colony.

Today, the Coastal Pacific journey north has barely changed, with the expansive Canterbury Plains remaining sparsely populated and dotted with farms and small communities. The immense flatness allows the distant hills of the Torlesse Range to be seen 70km to the west. These are the hills through which the TranzAlpine train climbs on its way into the Southern Alps, following the Waimakariri River gorge, which the Coastal Pacific crosses near Kaiapoi as it travels across the plains.

Although the antithesis of scenic, the Main North Line railway's many tunnels are a major feature of the journey. The expense and difficulty of building these tunnels resulted in the railway taking more than 70 years to complete.

All but one of the Main North Line's 20 tunnels are clustered in the cliffs that rise on either side of Kaikoura's vast plain. Tunnels 1-14 are located within a 19km stretch between Claverley and Okiwi Bay, while tunnels 15-20 are cut within a 10km stretch between Mangamaunu and Okiwi Bay. The majority of these tunnels were needed to meet the railway's speed requirement by keeping bends within the decreed 240m radius.

Immediately adjacent to Riley's Road Tunnel 14 is the Kahautara River Bridge 101. Stretching 241 metres over the Kahautara River, the bridge provides spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean to the east and the Seaward Kaikouras to the west.

For those travelling northbound on the Coastal Pacific to Picton, this is the first of many stunning views of the Seaward Kaikoura mountains. The range rises from the south with the highest peak, 2610-metre Manakau, visible in the north. During summer, this beautiful mountainous seaside region gets intensely hot, so you need to travel in spring or autumn to catch the mountains capped with snow. 

One of the most spectacular moments comes just north of Hapuku, at Mangamaunu Bay. Here the train sweeps around the huge moon-shaped bay, delivering exceptional close-up views of the Kaikoura mountain ranges rising from the water to the north.

Mangamaunu Bay is also a highly rated surf beach with a right-hand point break. When the waves are on form, you are likely to see a queue of well-mannered surfers waiting to take their turn.

But it isn't all sea and scenery. As the Coastal Pacific train ventures along this historic railway, the fundamental challenges and rewards of life in New Zealand are framed within its huge panoramic windows. The Kaikoura earthquake of 2016 is the latest chapter of an incredible story.

Following the quake, an intensive rebuild job was required between Oaro in the south and Ward in the north. Taking two years to complete, the railway had to be physically moved several metres and tunnels rebuilt. North of Kaikoura,  the visible volume of raised seabed is immense, and the scar formed by the Papatea fault-line can be seen alongside the tracks at Waipapa Bay.

Between Lake Grassmere and Picton, you'll see row upon row of delicious grape vines basking in the Marlborough sun. There are two distinct valleys where the alluvial volcanic soils provide the perfect acidity for a Marlborough's uniquely zesty Sauvignon Blanc. The southern valley is the Awatere, where the Coastal Pacific eases through the station of Seddon and over the Awatere River. The northern valley is the Wairau, which flattens out to create the plains surrounding Blenheim - this valley is easily visible from Wellington's south coast on a clear day.

If you are a fan of New Zealand wine, then you'll see plenty of famous names along the Coastal Pacific journey: Cloudy Bay, Clifford Bay, Dashwood, Rapaura, Babich, and Wither Hills. And if you are a wine-lover, then you should certainly stop off at Blenheim or Picton and enjoy a few days visiting the many cellar doors and winery restaurants around the region.